Sheet Goods Storage Cart

Unlike a lumber pile or a cutoff scrap pile, sheet goods don't necessarily get in the way.  They can be hauled into the shop and leaned up against a wall where they'll sit until needed.  No, the problem with sheet goods isn't storage.  They're completely different problems. 

Sheet goods have two unique problems; moving them and getting to them.  First, A full sheet of " MDF can weigh in at close to a hundred pounds, and regardless of the material, moving full sheets is awkward.  I'm getting to a point in my life where I just don't want to tote heavy and awkward.  Second, that out of the way, leaned over, stacked up pile of MDF is now covering that " sheet of oak ply I need for the bookcase back.  Now, I have to move that half ton pile of heavy and awkward... again!

As with the inspiration for my other wood storage solutions, I originally got the idea for sheet goods storage from the Dec. 04/Jan. 05 "Triple Threat Storage" article from Wood Magazine.  Of course, the last line in the sheet goods preamble is to scrap this project if you have ceilings less than 9' tall.  That's me.  I pondered ways to adapt that thing for over a year... never figured out a way to modify it so that it would work for me. 

I finally found plans for a Sheet Goods Cart that I liked and that I thought would work for me in Vol. 16, Issue 91 of Shopnotes Magainze.  I built it pretty much as the plans call for.  Dimensionally, it's the same as the plans, but I did make a couple of very small mods to it.  But, we'll get to those in short order.  It works great.

Cut List and Materials--

Major components...

** Notes **
*1. - The plans call for " PVC, but it felt a little flimsy to me.  The 1" PVC just felt better.
*2. - Spring for some good wheels.  It's worth it.

Additional Materials...

In addition to the wood components and major materials above, you will also need the following:

• a couple of pieces of scrap " scrap ply.
• a box of deck screws.
• a few lag bolts.

Build The Cart --

	Build the frame and floor... Get a reprint of the "Sheet Goods Cart" article for reference if needed.  If your browser helps you and reduces the pic size, it should print full size. Begin by framing up the base... take a couple of 2 x 4 sticks (A) and screw them to the sides of the floor (B).  Measure and mark some layout lines for the base supports.  Because of the poor quality of today's dimensional lumber, it's a good idea to custom fit each one of the base supports.  Screw those in as per the detail.
	Cut uprights, base ends, and upper pipe racks... Cut the 2 x 4 uprights to 60' as called out in the drawing.  Now, cut the base ends and upper pipe racks, six of them altogether; they're all 28" long.  Gang up all six together and run them across a stack dado set or score some lines and chisel out the half laps along the centerline.  Temporarily clamp the base ends and upper pipe racks to the base.  Grab a 1" paddle bit and drill the holes for the PVC dividers (C) through the upper pipe rack and only one of the two base ends on each side.  Don't attach them yet. Remove the clamps and set the upper pipe racks and base ends aside for a few minutes.
	Attach the wheels, mount the base ends and uprights... Now is a good time to turn the floor assembly over and attach the wheels (D) with the pan head screws (E).  If you sprang for the good ones, they'll have brakes that you can set to keep if from scooting around while you finish up. After the wheels are on, turn it back over and attach the base ends, first to each other, then to the base.  Lay the uprights into the half laps and bolt them in with some lag bolts.  At the top, fit the uprights to the half laps in the upper pipe racks and attach with a few deck screws.  Attach the upright supports.  This is one place I altered the plans a little.  The plan calls for two and I used three.  From the top of the upright, lay out 15" marks.  Attach the top upright support below the upper pipe rack, and the other two upright supports on your 15" marks.  This will serve to make the whole assembly a little more rigid.  Note that there is no upright support on the floor assembly.
	Final assembly... The final assembly step is to add the bottom brace (F) and supports.  This was the other mod I made to the plans.  Trim, fit, and lay the bottom 2 " x 2" brace along the centerline of the uprights on the floor assembly.  Attach it to the supports with screws.  Also attach a 2" x 2" x 14" on the inside of each of the upright centerlines and attach to the uprights with screws.  Grab some scrap " ply and cut it into trianges about 16" inches on the square sides.  You'll need a total of four.  Now attache the triangle supports, on on either side to the braces.  It'll make the whole project more rigid. The only thing left is to cut the PVC dividers (C) to fit and insert them through the holes in the upper panel racks and seat them in the holes on the base ends.  That's it.  Roll it out to the truck, load 'er up, and wheel it back into the shop.  Enjoy.

Cautions and Safety Concerns --

Careful with shorts...

There aren't really too many safety concerns with this project.  The only thing I did was to put a safety strap on the side where I keep the shorts and cutoffs.  Other than that, I take care with where the wheels are in relation to my toes.