Router Table

The general idea...

A router table basically allows one to move a workpiece across a spinning bit while the tool (the router) is held steady in a fixed position.  When building a router table for one's own use, it may have many considerations, any of which may become requirements based solely on the whims of the end user.  For me, these include:

• above the table bit changes.
• easy and accurate bit height changes.
• it has to be dead flat.
• work surface big enough to suit my needs.
• reference surfaces (fence, miter slots, etc.) must be accurate.
• starter pin for free hand, bearing piloted safety.
• easy, safe, and accurate jig use.
• easily replaceable "zero clearance" parts like fences.
• adequate dust control/extraction.

By building it myself, and using the right components, I was able to achieve all of my requirements.

Materials and cut list...

For this project, the table top finished at 45" x 25", including the oak trim.  And as previously stated, the cabinet was the original, and isn't considered here.  If your router table needs to be a different size, vary the materials list to suit your requreiments.

Item	Qty	Component	L	W	D	Material	Notes
A	2	Substrates	44"	23"	"	MDF	#1
B	2	Laminate	45"	24"	N/A	Formica	#2
C	2	Trim	≈ 28"	3"	"	Hardwood	#3
D	2	Trim	≈ 48"	3"	"	Hardwood	#3

** Notes **

1. Yellow glue will bond the substrates together nicely.
2. Contact cement is used to bond the laminate to the substrate.
3. I used red oak, but any hardwood would be fine...

The basic table...

Using the " MDF, cut the two table top substrates (A).  Glue and clamp 'em up.  Make sure you overlap the sides and ends by about ".  That will give you two perpendicular reference edges.  We'll trim them to final size after the glue dries.  Also, make sure they stay absolutely flat while the glue dries.  I put down some thin plastic and then clamped it all (lots of clamps and cawls) to the flattest thing I own, my table saw.

After the glue has dried, start with one of your reference edges against the rip fence, cut the dry glue and overlap off of the opposing side.  Turn it 90°, one way or the other, but making sure that you use the same referenced piece.  Trim the adjacent side.  Now, continue until the other two sides are trimmed and square. 

This step may seem counter intuitive considering it's MDF, but mix some yellow glue with a little water and "paint" the edges with it.  It will seal the edges from moisture and help the trim glue-up when the trim is applied a little later.

Gluing the laminate...

After the glue is dry on those, cut the two counter top laminates (B) as listed in the cutting list.  You can cut that stuff on a table saw just fine, but be careful... it can slip up under the fence.  Take a little acetone and wipe down both sides of the substrate and the back of both pieces of laminate. 

** CAUTION **
If you aren't familiar with contact cement, BE CAREFUL!  Kids are going brain dead sniffing this stuff, but big people can get a little woozy too.  Glove up.  Don't use foam rollers; use natural bristle rollers if you can.  The solvents in contact cement are pretty harsh and can melt a lot of synthetic stuff out there.  MSDS' on various brands of contact cement declare the dangers of its use, especially fire and inhalation problems... work outside if possible!  Most important, get the MSDS on the brand of contact cement you use, read it, and head its warnings, especially the exposure warnings!

Using one of your disposable paint rollers, spread contact cement on one side of the substrate and the back of one of the pieces of laminate.  Depending on the temp and humidity when you apply it, give it 10 to 20 minutes to "tack-up."  Once it tacks, lay your sticks across the substrate surface and your piece of laminate across the sticks.  Line everything up such that the laminate overhangs on all sides.  Now, starting in the center and working your way out to the edges, start rolling out the laminate with your j-roller.  Use plenty of pressure and move the sticks out of your way as needed.  Soon as you're done, chuck up a flush trim bit in the router and trim the edges.  Turn the whole thing over and do it again.

Hometime has a good how-to article on making laminate counters if you need additional info. 

Start milling the top...

At this point, the surface is pretty solid, but the laminate edge will chip if you look at it wrong!  Mill, measure, mark, and miter the corners on the four edge band pieces (C, D), and attach with some yellow glue.  Of course, you could wrap the edges in laminate here too.  Either way is fine... But, the hardwood will be more durable, and I just like the finished look a little better when it's wrapped in wood.

Measure twice, cut once.  Yeah, RIGHT!  One of the requirements I had for this thing was top shelf accuracy.  It's easy to see the layout lines in the photos, and I'm sure I measured everything at least 10 times.  And, laying the jigs on the lines to mill everything wasn't good enough either.  I got out a dial indicator to make sure the jigs were clamped in the right places because the pencil lines were too fat and I didn't trust the jig alignment to those marks.  The parabolic distortion is from the camera lens, not the mill work.

Anyway, the recess for the router lift has been cut.  Most of the router lift/plate manufacturers sell a companion template if you don't feel comfy making your own.  Also, I used Woodpecker's combo track.  It's designed to be bolted through the table for strength; it's easy to see the holes pre-drilled for the mounting bolts as well as the counterbore on the back side.  Finally, the miter track slot is cut and the test fit came out well.

Dust collection...

Table mounted routers (and routers in general) can generate seemingly endless amounts of dust.  So, dust collection was one of my biggest priorities for this table.  I also wanted to collect it at both, the bit, and in the router cavity.  And finally, I wanted it to have a "clean" look, and not have a hodgepodge of piping in the back of it.  So, I turned to Rockler.  They sell all of this stuff for a fairly reasonable price.

I ordered a 4" dust hood, a 2" dust port, and 10' of 2" dust collection hose.  I already had everything else.  Anyway...

I wanted to take the dust off the bit into the cavity, and then everything from the cavity right to the dust collector.  I may see if the 2.5" port from Rockler fits the back of the fence, and if it does, I'll order another one.  Also, I may add a couple of boards in the cavity to better direct the dust flow into the 4" port.  We'll see how it works out, and I'll let you know.

Finishing up...

Finally, the slots for the t-track are cut and the t-track is bolted in.  I used the reclaimed t-track from the original table (they were anodized gold), so they don't match, but they work just fine.  I used Marc Spagnuolo's exact width dado jig to lay them in. 

And, it's also mounted on the cabinet.  Even though all of the layout marks are still on it, it has painter's tape on it so I can get a few coats of varnish on the trim.

All done...

Five coats of varnish on the trim and all the layout marks have been cleaned off. 

She's ready to go to work!

If you decide to do this particular table and you have any questions, send me a note.  You can use either, the site's form-mail, or a standard shoot me a note.