Working on Dad's house in Atlanta, we (Dad, my brother, and myself) wound up
with about 1500 linear feet of baseboard, door and window moulding, and various
other trim that needed to be replaced. Finding a place to let all that
trim dry after priming and painting presented a unique problem... the solution,
or at least the one I came up with, was to drill a bunch of holes in some 2 x 4s
and glue some dowels in the holes. A couple of 1 x 4s to hold and brace
the 2 x 4s together, and we were off and running. Funny thing is, it
worked quite well! If I ever wind up in a situation like that again,
I'll know exactly what to do.
Back at the ranch, it's a little different. I rarely need space to put 1500 feet of trim, but there are times when I need room for a few panels or boards. And, it's much easier to watch the paint dry on six or eight panels at one time than six or eight panels, one at a time. In Wood Magazine (Issue 174, Dec. 06/Jan. 07), there was an article about a drying rack that I thought had some potential. Even though I didn't need one when I read the article, I kept it in the back of my mind.
I wasn't convinced that I was content with their design "as is," but it served as plenty of inspiration for what I built. What I came up with is pictured at left, and if it looks like it will work for you, read on. If on the other hand, theirs looks as if it will serve you better, then by all means, build it. Either way, they're handy jigs.
Following is a cut list of materials for the jig that I built. It's real straight forward and very easy to build.
| Item | Qty | Component | Notes | Dimensions |
| A | 2 | panels | 16" x 36" x " | |
| B | 2 | short frames | *1 | 3" x 36" x " |
| C | 2 | long frames | *2 | 3" x 14" x " |
| D | 2 | hinges | 3" steel or brass | |
| E | 4 | screw hooks | ||
| F | 2 | hook & eye latches | ||
| G | 2 | bungee cords | 8" minis | |
| H | 2 | carriage bolts | " | |
| I | 2 | wing nuts | " |
** Notes **
*1. - " off each side to account for the width of
the plywood on the long frame sides.
*2. - I used pine sticks, but I'd use " ply if
I had it to do over again.
In addition to the wood components and major materials above, you will also need the following consumable supplies:
|
Cut your materials...Considering what this jig is and does, you don't need first rate materials here. Still, use plywood. MDF will be cheaper, but it'll be heavier too, and somebody's got to lug this thing around. Before you cut the panels and framing pieces, consider what type of work you so. You may want to adjust the dimensions a little. Anyway, cut the two panels (A). Also cut the short (B) and long (C) frame pieces. While it's just panels, measure and mark your holes, and drill them all the way through both panels. When in use, I have three rows that I can lay panels across, but again, you may want to adjust it. |
|
Frame one of the panels...I should have used " ply for all of the framing pieces, but I used 2" x 4" sticks for the long sides. In fact, I'm so convinced, I used plywood in the materials list above. This is a perfect application to use a pocket hole jig if you happen to have one. If not, I highly recommend one. Some glue, some screws, and some pocket holes... all done. I used one on the short frame sides. Cool jig! Anyway, frame one of the panels. |
|
Add the hinges...On the other panel, install a couple of brass or steel hinges (D) at appropriate locations. Draw a couple of cabinet makers triangles on the panels so you don't get them turned around. Otherwise, depending on how you laid out and drilled your holes, the panels may not line up correctly. Now, lay the "door" panel up on the box and attach the hinges to the frame. |
|
Add the latches...Just flip the box around now, and add a couple of hook and eye latches (F) to keep it closed. I haven't needed or bought a hook and eye latch in years. When I went to the Borg to buy one, I was surprised to find that they no longer had the points to guide the hook into the eye like they did when I was a kid. Guess someone was too stupid to understand the technology, poked themselves, and sued. So, they took the points off the hooks for all of us. The old style is still available through Stanley Hardware. |
|
Build the feet...This is actually the most involved step in building this jig. Cut four strips of " ply as long as the box is wide. Make the strips as wide as the frame parts. Mine was 16" long x 3" wide. Drill a hole 2" from one end of two of the strips and attach those to either end of the box with a few screws. Insure that you offset each of these by 4" such they sit off to the same side. This will become the "foot" of the unit when it's in use. Starting at the center of the other two strips, route a through channel to a mark 2" from one end. Do this on both strips. Attach it to the mounted strips with a carriage bolt (H) and wing nut (I). You can see in the next picture how they appear when mounted. |
|
Load 'er up...Add a couple of screw hooks (E) to either end to attach the bungee cords (G). The hooks and bungee cords aren't actually required, but if you happen to lift the door while it's standing up, they'll keep the sticks from falling out. The box now becomes a convenient place to store the sticks you use when setting up the panel drying rack. |
|
Use the jig...Here's the jig set up and almost ready. Just pull the sticks out of the box, slip them through the holes, and as you paint trim, or panels, or whatever, you have a great place to let them dry. When you're done with it all, fold the legs back up, and stick it in a corner out of the way. The very top photo shows the jig in work, complete with a couple of freshly stained boards. The other side is loaded too! |
Just wish I'd use pocket hole joinery with plywood for the entire frame. It would have been just as strong, and a little bit lighter. Every day I get a little bit older, lighter gets just a little bit better.