S.C.Rogers Photos, Great Smoky Mountains National Park

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited national park within the United States, and Cades Cove is the most visited area within the park. Currently, the park service estimates the park receives over nine million visitors each year, with over two million seeing Cades Cove. It makes for some interesting photography challenges.

Historically, Cades Cove was a fertile hunting ground for the Cherokee Indians, and although there's little to no empirical evidence that the Cherokee settled the cove, trails they developed and used to navigate the cove certainly confirms their presence. These trails were later used by European-American frontiersman who settled the cove. John and Lucretia Oliver were the first whites to settle the cove and almost certainly wouldn't have survived the effects of starvation if not for the food provided them by the Cherokee. The Calhoun Treaty required the Cherokee to relinquish their rights to Cades Cove in 1819, though some remained in the cove through the 1820s.

The Cherokees called the cove Tsiyahi or "place of the river otter," presumably for the abundance of otters in the cove's many streams. With so many place names in the Smokys retaining names given by the Cherokee, no one is quite certain how Tsiyahi became Cades Cove, but it has been so for a long time. Hugh Dunlap was issued a land grant 5,000 acres in Cades Cove as early as 1794 by the state of North Carolina, so it dates at least that early. Several theories exist as to how it got it's name. Cade is a relatively common name in East Tennessee, so like many places, it took its name from one of the early settlers. This seems unlikely as the Olivers were the first whites to inhabit the cove. Another theory is that Cade was a derivative of Kate, Kate being the wife Chief Abram for whom Abrams Creek, which flows through Cades Cove, is named. However, the most predominate theory is that it was named for Cherokee Chief Kade who once laid claim to the land before The Calhoun Treaty was signed.

All of these photos were taken in Cades Cove in the Smoky Mountain National Park during the summer of 2003. As the viewer will see, not all of the photos here are old barns, houses, or churches which is suppose to be the theme, but there's no other logical place to put them... it's all part of the "Cades Cove" experience. There are 18 designated landmarks and they correspond to this Loop Road Map. Map courtesy of YourSmokies.com And, here is a wonderful Cades Cove loop road cross stitch map. Sampler by Jane Langley Simmes Jobe. Photo of sampler by Randy Jobe. Original photo on this website. The landmarks are:

Anyone wanting these photos for personal use is welcome to take them. They are already "sized" for general web/PC use and will work just fine. However, should you want them for reprints, or "full screen" screensavers, or whatever, I have the high resolution originals. Just note the page and photo number in the upper part of the picture as it's displayed, and contact me using this site's form-mail, or a standard e-mail client and I'll send them to you. Just realize that you'll need a fat e-mail inbox to receive them.

Additionally, anyone wanting these for commercial use or sale, or anyone wanting to post them on other websites, please ask... I don't mind, but I would appreciate the credits. More information is available using the resource Links at the bottom of the page.

Click any of the pictures to get a better view

John Oliver Cabin

The long shed on the opposite side of the house is an apiary (or bee gum stand). Honey was a commonly used as a sweetener, and also a money crop for some farmers. The apiary sheltered the hives from the weather, but not from bears.

Primitive Baptist Church

Methodist Church

Missionary Baptist Church

Rich Mountain Road

The Park Service marker for Rich Mountain Road.

Cable Mill Area and Visitor's Center

The National Park Service currently maintains several buildings in Cades Cove that are representative of pioneer life in the 19th century Appalachia.

[1]
Gregg-Cable House This fine house is the first frame house to be built in Cades Cove and is made from lumber that was sawed at the Cable Mill. It was built in 1879 on an acre of land purchased from John Cable on Forge Creek Road. The owner Leason Gregg lived for 8 years in this house and operated a small store on the first floor. As time went one and as needed he would keep enlarging the house. John Cables son Dan Cable and his daughter Rebecca Cable purchased the house from Leason Gregg in 1887. Rebecca and Dan operated the store for 8 years until they decided to sell everything in the store and turn it into a boarding house. Life was not easy for them and sickness haunted both siblings as Dan was mental ill and institutionalized and Rebecca developed TB. Luckily they had Aunt Becky. Becky not only helped raise Dans children, took care of the farm and cattle, and ran the boarding house. While Becky's life was hard, she got back what she gave and eventually owned more than 600 acres of land and lived to the ripe old age of 96. Becky typified the strength, generosity and resilience of the residents of Cades Cove.

John P Cable Grist Mill This was not the only mill in the early days of Cades Cove but it is the only mill still standing. In the 1860s a farmer named John P Cable bought this land in Cades Cove and in 1870 he built this water driven grist and saw mill. If you look you will see how the water comes from Mill Creek, runs through the mill race and ends up on the long wheel which provided power for the saw as well as the grist mill. Corn was the major crop of Cades Cove and thus mills that could grind the corn were of real importance to the residents of the Cove. Milling was one of the first industries in the Cove and the mill owners were able to tax a farmer around 10% for grinding his crop. Early mills were small and did a poor job grinding corn. These tub mills as they were called, cracked the corn and turned it into a rough corm meal for making breads. The more sophisticated mills such as the mill seen here could grind a much finer corn meal and turn wheat into flour which could be used in biscuits and cakes. Although this was a great mill for food stock, it was not fantastic as a saw mill. The water driven wheel powered a sash blade - a reciprocating flat blade that travels up and down. This sash blade does not cut lumber as well as a steam operated saw mill with a circular blade does. Apparently owning and operating this mill was not enough for John P Cable. He was also an active farmer and had a large bell mounted on a pole by the mill that customers could ring when he was working on the fields. His son James V Cable ran this mill into the 1900s. James could not compete with the steam operated saw mills so he just concentrated on grinding corn and wheat.

Originally built by Leason Gregg in 1879 on Forge Creek Road, and later purchased by Becky Cable. It is thought to be the oldest all-frame house in Cades Cove. It was moved to its present location in 1960.
Rear of the Gregg-Cable home.
Originally built by Leason Gregg in 1879 on Forge Creek Road, and later purchased by Becky Cable. It is thought to be the oldest all-frame house in Cades Cove. It was moved to its present location in 1960.
One of several out buildings in the mill area near the Cades Cove visitor center, this is the LeQuire cantilever Barn. It's heavily cantelevered in the front.
The rear of the barn in the mill area near the Cades Cove visitor center. It's cantelevered in the front.
Looking through the barn from the rear.
An old buckboard stored in the barn.
An early tractor of sorts... it has some tines on the back.
Another of the early farm tools stored in the barn.
An old ox yoke stored and ready to be hitched to one of the many drawn tools stored in the barn. Ox yokes were often made from Sassafras.
The cantelevered barn in the Cable mill area as seen from behind the gristmill's flume.
The other large barn in the Cable mill area of Cades Cove.
Another view of the second barn.
A closer view of the barn's dovetail construction.
A bench... the legs are mortised into the under side of the bench.
The blacksmith shop in the Cable mill area of Cades Cove. Farms in this era had to be self-sustaining, and farmers would have been jacks of all trades, including a little blacksmithing.
The "business" area of the blacksmith shop, including the anvil, and several of the tools.
A few of the items that would have been repaired or fabricated on site; some examples of metalsmithing requirements on a farm may have been to repair the blade from the saw mill, wheelwright (or wainwright) to fix the various wagon wheels, and hoops for coopering barrels.
Another view of the blacksmith shop.
This is the corn crib. Notice how the roof is cantelevered well beyond the corn crib for additional dry storage.
Another view of the corn crib. The dovetail construction would have been used for strength as well as to prevent rot at the tie points as they're constucted in such a way that rain would have always drained off.
A wagon stored under one side of the corn crib roof. One of the wagon wheels in the blacksmith shop may have been to repair the broken wheel on this wagon.
The corn crib as viewed from behind the split rail fence. The fence is almost certainy made of American Chestnut.
The corn crib and the second barn. The split rail fence would have been built out of American Chestnut which was rot and insect resistant.
The John P. Cable Grist Mill is an overshoot mill built in 1868. The mill still operates seasonally and corn meal can still be purchased at the Cades Cove Visitor Center. For some great before and after photos of the restoration, see this LOC Page
Water pouring out of the flume over the water wheel drives the mill stone inside the mill. Water gates allow the miller to regulate the flow of water. The last water gate on the flume (visible here), can be operated by a long lever from within the mill.
The walkway up to the mill... notice the control lever connected to the last water gate in the flume at the back of the mill.
Another photo of the mill from the front. It had just sprinkled and the glare from the roof was terrible.
Part of the 235 foot flume. The flume is braced every few feet to keep the wood from buckling outward from the weight of the water.
Another photo of part of the 235 foot flume. Notice how the braces are mortised and tenoned together for strength.
The chunk rack where the millrace meets the flume is there to "filter out" large pieces of debris. Leaves, several twigs, and one fairly substantial limb are visible on the front side of the rack, an indication that it's working correctly.
The Gregg-Cable smokehouse. As throughout the Smokys, smokehouses were common in Cades Cove. Hogs were the principal meat preserved by smoking. Just before the "hog killin'," hogs were turned out amongst the chestnuts in Cades Cove to fatten them up.
Another view of the Gregg-Cable smokehouse.

Henry Whitehead Place

The Henry Whitehead Cabin is located just off the Cades Cove loop road on Forge Creek Road near Chestnut Flats. It was constructed 1895-1896 by Henry Whitehead (1851–1914) for his second wife, Matilda "Aunt Tildy" Shields (1842-1924).

According to folklore, Matilda and her young son were deserted by Ebenezer Alexander "Nazer" Gregory (1844-1901). Apparently, he went down to the creek for a bucket of water and never returned. With family nearby, her brothers were quick to put up a dwelling to get her by, but considering the sort of emergency it was, the cabin was the absolute roughest of construction [1]. Meanwhile, Henry Whitehead had recently been widowed. A courtship ensued and fate ran its course.

As for the dwelling, it exemplifies the worst and the best in construction techniques in the cove at the time. The orginal cabin was put up in extreme haste by her brothers, an effort to ensure she at least had shelter after Nazer Gregory abandoned the family. It was built almost entirely of rough-hewn, axe felled logs.&ngsp; The logs weren't squared on the ends and they required considerable chinking along the lenght. The chimney was also made of stone, most likely gotten from one of the creeks... they would have been smoothed by time and the elements. It would have made mortering easier [2], [3]. After Matilda Shields and Henry Whitehead married, he built the new cabin and adjoined it to the old one. In contrast to the old cabin, the new cabin was one of the finest log cabins that could be built with the technology available in that time period; certainly one of the finest in Cades Cove. To begin, all of the logs were all locally sawn squre leaving very little to chink and making the corners square. Most of the interior plank and log faces were smoothed with hand planes. While virtually nothing beats the finish that can be achieved when a craftsman weilds a smoother, it's still very time consuming and expensive. The windward side of the cabin was weatherboarded to further insulate and protect the home from wind and rain. The cabin even had a brick chimney. The only way to obtain bricks in Cades Cove at that time was to mold and fire them yourself. So, that's what they did right there on the property. [2], [4].

The Whitehead place probably represents both, the crudest and, the finest log construction in Appalachia. It's considered a "trasition" home in that it displays rough log and sawmill frame construction. To my knowledge, the Whitehead place is the only square sawn home left in Great Smoky Mountains, and certainly the only one left in Cades Cove.

Sadly, I've never gotten pictures of the Whitehead place... Next time I'm in Cades Cove, I'll be sure to get some.

The Dan Lawson Place

There is some conflict as to when the Dan Lawson cabin (still often called the Peter Cable cabin) was built. Some sources indicate that the original hewn log cabin was built well prior to the Civil war by Peter Cable (1792-1866) in the 1840s and acquired by Dan Lawson (1827-1905) after Lawson married Cable's only daughter, Mary Jane [1]. Others indicate that Lawson built the cabin just prior to the Civil war around 1856 after he and Mary Jane Cable (1827-1901) were married in 1850 [2]. With additions made to the cabin over time, there may be some truth in both in that Cable built the early structure and Lawson made major improvements later. What is not disputed is that after the death of Peter Cable, Dan and Mary Jane Lawson inherited Cable's propertry. Lawson became the wealthiest man in the cove at the time.

Cades Cove was somewhat isolated from the rest of the world, but not completely. Mail service was established in the cove as early as 1933, and a weekly route was set up by Sevierville post master Philip Seaton in 1939. Additionally, by the 1950s, roads had been cut between Cades Cove and Tuckaleechee and Montvale Springs. But Lawson helped establish phone service in the cove in the 1890s when he and neighbors ran a phone line into Maryville [3]. Considering Lawson's wealth, one wonders where the service was set up...

The cabin has some of the better hand work of the dwellings in the cove. The inside faces of the logs were at least smoothed with an adze, a tool used for smoothing rough-cut wood in hand woodworking. The joists were all smoothed and beaded with hand planes, and the cabin has a brick chimney (vary rare in Cades Cove at the time). In addition to the cabin, other structures at the Dan Lawson site include a smokehouse, a chicken coop, and a hay barn. The property also had a granary, used for storing grains, close to the house. But, for the life of me, I can't tell the difference between a granary and a corn crib.

The Park Service marker at the Lawson place.
A good view of the old and new... notice the heavy chinking in the logs, but the rather smooth clapboard siding. Also, this is a faily good view of the brick chimney.
The smokehouse at the Lawson place. This is a great view of the cantilevered eaves and the dovetail construction. The dovetails were always built to make water drain and prevent rot. Seems to work.
The cabin and the smokehouse. The granary (corn crib) is to the left.
Another shot of the cabin and smokehouse.
And yet, another shot of the cabin and smokehouse.
A closeup of the side of the smokehouse. Again, note the dovetail construction.
The side of the Lawson place looking back towards the cove.
The back of the Lawson cabin.
Another view of the front of the Lawson cabin.
The brick fireplace in the cabin... Sad that vandals have defaced the mantel. If anyone ever sees someone doing this, please inform one of the park rangers.
A great shot of the "transitional" Cades Cove dwelling. Heavy chinking on the rougher logs on the left and sawmill cut and planed boards on the right. Also, vandalism is present here...

Tipton Place

The Tipton place (ca. 1870s) was built shortly after the Civil War by Col. Jonathan Wade Hampton "Hamp" Tipton (1822-1894), a veteran of the Mexican War. Although Tipton lived in nearby Tuckaleechee Cove, he apparently built this dwelling for two of his daughters, "Miss Lucy" and "Miss Lizzie" who were schoolmarms in Cades Cove.

Hamp Tipton was a direct decendant of William "Fighting Billy" Tipton (1761-1849), a Revolutionary War veteran. William Tipton received the first land grant issued by Tennessee in Cades Cove. The grant was for two sections, a total of 640 acres, to consolidate several previous entries and registered March 23, 1821. This was the first recorded legal land title for Cades Cove following the Calhoun Treaty.

Besides the cabin, there are a few other structures of interest on the site including the carraiage house, smokehouse, woodshed, the double pen corn crib, the apiary (or bee gum stand), and the often photographed double cantilever barn. The barn is actually a replica built in 1968, but very reminiscent of the barn that originally stood there. Also on the site is the blacksmith shop, an odd fixture for a couple of teachers. However, in 1878, the Tipton place was rented by James McCaulley (1832-1906), a blacksmith, carpenter, and coffin maker who lived here until he built his own house. McCauly was a welcome addition as blacksmiths were in short supply in the cove at the time.

The blacksmith shop where James McCaulley first set up business when he arrived in Cades Cove. Besides metalsmithing, McCaully was also a carpenter and coffin maker for the cove.
Another view of the blacksmith shop. Eventually, McCaully set up first rate carpentry and blacksmith shops elsewhere in Cades Cove where he lived and worked for a quarter century.
The west side of the Tipton place.
A view of the back of the Tipton place. The apiary is off to the right.
The back of the Tipton place with a view of the chimney. Off to the left, one can see part of the double cantilever barn across the loop road.
A view of the front of the Tipton place as one approaches fromt the loop road parking area.
The smokehouse where meats (mainly pork) would have been prepped and stored for the winters.
The long shed on the opposite side of the house is an apiary (or bee gum stand). Honey was a commonly used as a sweetener, and also a money crop for some farmers. The apiary sheltered the hives from the weather, but not from bears.
This was originally the carriage house and it had a red-wheeled carriage in it. The park service removed the carriage and boarded up the sides as you see it here.
Once a common site in the Smokys, this barn is a replica built by the park service in 1968. It's a pretty good copy of the barn which was there in the 1800's.
Notice the barn's two pen design and its huge eaves. This design allowed overhang protection for outside animals and equipment, and provided complete shelter for stalled animals, and an isle between the pens large enough to accommodate a wagon.
The photo is a little "grainy" and over exposed, but look how far the eaves stick out over the front of the barn.
This is the back of the double cantilever barn. Again, notice how far the eaves extend past the barn.
Across the road is the double pen corn crib. It's considerably larger than average corn cribs. Notice the driveway through the center.
Another view of the smokehouse...
Another view of the smokehouse...
Another view of the smokehouse...
Another view of the smokehouse...

Carter Shields Cabin

George Washington "Carter" Shields (1844-1924) purchased the cabin and land from John Sparks in 1910, but the cabin dates to the 1880s. Shields was wounded and crippled for life in the battle of Shiloh during the Civil War. He only lived in the cabin from the time he purchased it in 1910 until 1921 when he moved to Kansas where he lived for the rest of his life.

George Washington "Carter" Shields (1844-1924) cabin. Carter Shields purchased the cabin and land from John Sparks in 1910, but the cabin dates to 1880s. Shields lived in the cove until 1921.
George Washington "Carter" Shields (1844-1924) cabin. Carter Shields purchased the cabin and land from John Sparks in 1910, but the cabin dates to 1880s. Shields lived in the cove until 1921.
Another view of the Carter Shields cabin.
And yet another view of the Carter Shields cabin.
The back of the Carter Shields cabin.
A different view of the back of the Carter Shields cabin.

Other Cades Cove Adventures

The Anthony Creek horse camp is located in the Cades Cove area of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Resources

"Cades Cove.", and linked articles. Cades Cove the jewel of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.. 2010.
<http://www.yoursmokies.com/cades-cove.html>.
(22 Dec., 2010).