Click me to enlarge...
|
Click me to enlarge... |
Here, the reader (or potential park guest) can get information on the Cosby Creek campgrounds, Mount Cammerer, Snake Den Ridge Trail, Albright Grove, and Maddron Bald Trail, and much more.
Eighteen miles east of Gatlinburg, U.S. 321 comes to a fork, or a "T" depending on where you're from, and meets S.R. 32. Turning left (North) will take you to the Foothills Parkway. Turning right (South) will take you to the Cosby Creek entrance to the park. Cosby Creek is the eastern most entrance on the Tennessee side of the park. Make sure you check your odometer. As of this writing, there are no mile posts on this route. Assuming you turned south towards the park, 1.2 miles after you checked the odometer, you should reach the Cosby Creek entrance. Turning East (left) at this point will take you along the winding boundary of the park on S.R. 32. The pavement ends about 10 miles later at the Appalachian Trail. Trudging on...
The reader should bear in mind that I love old things, including maps... the map seen at left is from 1941. So the road and highway numbers above won't mean a lot as one tries to find them. For an up-to-date, basic road map, complete with all of the new road and highway numbers, click the link. There are two additional National Park Service maps of the Smokys on this page; Interesting because it shows many of the pre-park names, there is a 1941 map, and, there is a current 1997 map which has all of the new and improved info. The Library of Congress has high resolution originals of these maps. They're available at Maps of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Some of the sights to see in the Cosby Creek area of the park:
Cosby Creek Campgrounds
Wildcat Knob, Rich Mountain, Rich Butt Mountain, Buckeye Bald, Old Black, Camel
Hump Knob; all names of places in days gone by, places that meant something to
the locals that lived there long ago before it was a national park.
None of them are mentioned on the modern maps the park service gives out.
All of them are places that were accessible from what is now known as the Cosby
Creek campground. Print the 1941 map and see if you can find them as
you hike the trails that are maintained by the park service today.
As of this writing, there are roughly 150, well developed campsites in the grounds. When other park campgrounds are full, spaces can usually be had here. The campgrounds offer a small nature trail, sheltered and open picnic areas, ranger station with phones, trailer sanitary station, and the Cosby Horse Trail. Check with the Park Service for up-to-date information, availability, and reservations.
Hen Wallow Falls
Accounts vary as to how it got its name; Carson Brewer, the late Knoxville
News-Sentinel columnist and local historian, claims the name stems from a
community feud (actually, more like a little good natured ribbing) between one
farmer and his neighbors. Seems the enterprising farmer wanted to go
into the egg selling business and ordered 100 chicks. Turns out that
most of the chicks wouldn't nest as they were roosters, and the amused
neighbors started calling the farm "Roostertown" to poke a little fun.
In response, the farmer returned the favor and dubbed their place "Hen Wallow",
a reference to a place where grouse like to take an occasional dust bath in
the dry dirt. Sometimes called wood hens or fool birds, these ground
nesters tend to stick around and hold their ground until unsuspecting passers
by are right up on them... Then, the wing flappin' and commotion is sure
to scare the bajeesus out of ya.
Regardless, the cascade of Hen Wallow Falls can run from roughly 45' (mid-summer dry season) to 95' high in the early spring. Hen Wallow creek is formed as a sandstone offshoot of the Roaring Fork formation. In drier weather, the cascade begins as two streams about six feet apart, and merge to a 30' flow at the base. Spring rains and snow thaws can enlarge the force and size a good bit. Only two feet wide at the top, the falls fan out to a base of 20' to 25'.
At full flow, it's 95' make it one of the tallest falls in the park, and it's typically one of the least crowded. Getting there is via a 2.5 mile hike trail (rated moderate) through dense poplar, rhododendron, and hemlock forest with some great scenic views along the way. The trail begins just before the Cosby campground picnic area. When one arrives at the falls, the trail forks and the main path leads to the top of the falls. For a little more "rugged fun," the other fork is a narrow path to the base. Elevation gain is 520'.
Mount Cammerer
No confusion or controversy here; Mount Cammerer is named for
Arno B. Cammerer
(1883-1941), Director of National Park Service from 1933 to 1940. Times
were hard, the Great Depression was on, and FDR had established one of his most
popular New Deal programs, the Civilian Conservation Corps. Cammerer
was quick to build and take advantage of an alliance between the
Park Service and CCC,
including major efforts by the CCC in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Mt. Cammerer was named for Cammerer posthumously to his death in 1941.
Before the park was established, and even into the early years of the park, Mt. Cammerer was named "White Rock," a reference to the quartzite rocks at the apex. Of course, if that doesn't appeal to you, then maybe you're more the type to enjoy the rigors of the trail with nice vistas along the way, or the spectacular view from the fire watch tower. The fire watch tower was built by the CCC in 1939, but fell into disrepair in the 1960s. It was restored to its full grandeur by some dedicated volunteers in the 1990s. The 4,928' tower overlooks the Pigeon River Gorge, which is less than 2000'. With over a half mile of gorge to peer into, the views can be spectacular!
There are a couple of places where one can begin the hike to the summit, but all of those are beyond the scope of this page. There are several hiking sites on the web if that is your focus, and a few are listed in the resources at the bottom of this page. None of the hikes are too bad, but the shortest hike is via the Low Gap Trail from the Cosby Campground, and it's a little over 10 miles. So, if you plan to spend any time enjoying the views along the way, pack a lunch and plan to make a day of it.
Snake Den Ridge Trail
Legend has it that once upon a time, Joseph Campbell, a local of the old
Inadu Knob area, found a den of rattlesnakes on the ridge trail. The
locals shied away from the mountain from then on. And so, it's now
known as Snake Den Ridge. Now, I'm quite sure there are still plenty
of timber rattlers (and copperheads) still around the Smokys, but I'm also
quite sure that the 10 million or so visitors and the park staff keep them
off the trails... for the most part. Watch your step anyway.
As for the current day trail, it's about a 4.5 mile trail that starts from the trail heads at the Cosby Creek campgrounds. With a 5100' elevation gain, and a fairly continuous ascension, it's a pretty stout hike. It's not for the uninitiated.
If you decide to take it on, you'll find several nice, cool creeks along the way. They're a great place to cool your weary ole dogs on the hike up, or just stop and have a picnic lunch. And as luck would have it, they are full of trout. If you're so inclined, take a fly rod (and a valid license) with you. You'll also have some nice views along the way.
Old Black
If one takes the Snake Den Ridge Trail all the way to the end, it runs into
the Maddron Bald Trail. Day hikers typically turn right (north) and
head up to Albright Grove. However, more dedicated hikers, or those
with a little more time on their hands, will take a left (south) and another
.7 mile trail that leads to the A.T. At this point, visitors will be
between Camel Hump Knob and Old Black.
From a distance, Old Black appears very dark because of the dense stands of conifers, specifically Fraser firs and red spruce trees. And thus, its name becomes apparent.
The apex of Old Black is 6,370', which makes it the fifth highest free standing peak in the park, but it doesn't get much recognition for that as it stands in the shadow of nearby 6,621' Mt. Guyot, the second highest peak in the Smokys. Most of those dedicated hikers will pass Old Black on their way there. In a slightly odd twist, it was Arnold H. Guyot (1807-1884) himself that used to call Old Black by its old name, Mt. Henry, but that was before the Civil war.
Maddron Bald Trail
Very old surveys indicate Maddron Bald and Maddron Creek, but unfortunately,
neither appear on any current park maps. Although several Maddron families
were local to the area, it is most likely named for the patriarchal family of
Lawson and Annie Maddron. It was formerly known as Madders Bald, a fitting
name because of the bluets, members of the Madder family of plants, which are
common at this elevation.
The modern trail serves as a rough boundary between Cocke and Sevier County, and runs almost 8 miles from the north edge of the park to A.T. by Inadu Knob and Old Black. It follows Buckeye Creek rather closely. From the Cosby Creek campground, visitors can pick it up north of Albright Grove at the end of Gabes Mountain Trail, or south of Albright Grove at the end of Snake Den Ridge Trail . Albright Grove is somewhere around the midpoint. Also, be aware that this a good two day hike with a second leg ascension that runs from 1,800' to 5,800'. One either needs to be in fairly good shape or be ready to take frequent breaks. It is worth it though!
Along the way, don't pass up a chance to see the old Baxter cabin about half a mile into the trail. It's a one room cabin built in 1889 by Alex and Sara Baxter. It is built entirely of American Chestnut, and possibly one single tree. It's a great piece of Smoky Mountain history.
Gabes Mountain Trail
Originally known as "Messer Trail," current Gabes Mountain Trail is rocky, rough,
worn, and winding. Starting at Cosby Creek, about a mile or so into the
hike, one comes to "Crying Creek." Legend has it that it got its name
because a man mistook his brother for a bear, and accidently shot and killed
him there.
The A.T. being a notable exception, only a handful of the trails now in the Smokys can trace their roots back to either original settlers or the Cherokee. Most trails in the Smokys were built by the C.C.C., and Gabes Mountain Trail is no different. And, most of them loosely follow a ridge line or stream bed, but this is where Gabes Mountain Trail becomes fairly unique. It crosses several streams and ridges, most in succession. By comparison, it's one of the reasons this is a pretty strenuous trail to hike.
The trail runs between Cosby Creek (just north of the campground) to the Maddron Bald Trail. It's the trail to modern day Hen Wallow Falls. Visitors starting from Cosby Creek will first pass "Wildcat Knob" and then "Round Mountain" to the north, and then "Buckeye Bald" to the south before arriving at the Maddron Bald Trail. On the other side of Maddron Bald Trail, it becomes "Old Settlers Trail" where about 16 miles later, it ends at Greenbrier Cove.
Albright Grove, Albright Grove Loop Trail
The grove loop trail is a small loop that encircles Albright Grove. It's
off of the "Maddron Bald Trail" right by "Yogi's Jellystone Campground".
Like most modern trails in the Smokys, it was built by the CCC during the
Depression. Both, Albright Grove and the loop trail are named for Horace
Albright, Director of the National Park Service from 1929 to 1933.
As for the grove itself, it somehow missed the logging efforts that began in the Smokys around the early 1900s. Visitors that get there will have their rewards; giant yellow poplars, beeches, maples, Fraser magnolias, and tuliptrees are magnificent and awe inspiring. Today, it is believed to be virgin timber and one stand of the poplars are considered to be among the oldest living trees in the eastern United States.
Mt. Guyot
At 6,621', Mt. Guyot is the second highest peak in the Smokys, second only to
Clingmans Dome (elevation: 6,643'). And, with a base to crest rise of
over 4,000', it is the second tallest mountain in the Smokys second only to
Mt. LeConte (elevation: 6,593', base to crest rise: 5,301'). Sadly,
nobody ever remembers who plays second fiddle.
It's named for Arnold H. Guyot (1807-1884). Guyot was a Swiss-American geologist and geographer whose surveying efforts in the Smokys determined that Newfound Gap, not nearby Indian Gap, was the lowest pass through the mountains. That was in 1872... the mountain was first climbed in 1821. It's arguable as to whom surveyed it first, but interestingly, it was not Guyot.
The A.T. passes along the upper edge of Mt. Guyot, but never crosses the actual summit. And, leaving the A.T. to get to it means shedding the backpack and braving heavy Fraser fir forests, complete with very dense undergrowths. Hikers that want to tell the tale of hitting the USGS brass placard will always have the right to say they've done it, but that's as good as it gets... no spectacular vistas, no stunning views. Those not interested in bragging rights will be better served to stay on the A.T. and forge on.
"Hike database.", and linked articles. KnoxNews: GoSmokies. 2005.
<http://trails.gosmokies.com/index.cfm>.
(17 Jun. 2007).
"Great Smoky Mountains.", and linked articles. National Park Service. 2005.
<http://www.nps.gov/grsm/>.
(22 Mar. 2006).
"Maps of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.", and linked articles. Library of Congress. 2006.
<http://rs6.loc.gov/ammem/gmdhtml/nphtml/gsmhome.html>.
(22 Mar. 2006).
"National Park, The.", and linked articles. All the Smokies. 2005.
<http://www.allthesmokies.com/the_national_park.html>.
(22 Mar. 2006).
DeLaughter, Jerry. Smokies Road Guide: A Complete Guide to the Roads In Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Gatlinburg. Great Smoky Mountains Association. 2006.
"Smoky Mountains Guide and Information ", and linked articles. Rod's Guide 2006.
<http://www.rodsguide.com/>.
(27 Jun. 2004).
"Tennessee County 1895 Maps " 1895 U.S. Atlas 2006.
<http://www.livgenmi.com/1895/TN/County/>.
(27 Jun. 2004).
